D-Link Forums
The Graveyard - Products No Longer Supported => Routers / COVR => DIR-825 => Topic started by: robert_rcr on July 15, 2013, 06:50:13 PM
-
Hi, I have an DIR-835A1 on firmware 1.04 and it was working almost without a problem for around 6 months. Today while I was streaming music from iheart radio it totally halted. So I just rebooted the router and when that didn't work I did a factory reset. After it booted I notice the WAN LED was off so I check the wires and all wires are good. So I just turn it off unplug it for about a couple of hours till I got back home. When I got back home I check all LAN ports and they are all dead, nothing happens when I plug it to any device. WIFI still works it went back to default I'm able to connect and login to the router and WAN shows it's disconnected when I have everything connected properly. I'm thinking a fuse to the wire ports or something like a capacitor fried. Any suggestions before I get rid of it. I believe it's out of warranty so if anyone knows of an easy fix like soldering a new fuse or the like please let me know. Thanks ahead.
-
Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=41537.0)
- What region are you located?
- Are you wired or wireless connected to the router?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates?
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Did you power off the ISP modem as well for 30 seconds then turn on, then turn ON the 835 router?
Turn OFF ALL devices or disconnect all devices accept for 1 wired LAN PC or wireless depending on which one works.
If you can get to the routers web page, you might do a factory reset of the router with out being connected to the ISP modem, resend the FW update file for v1.04 once more, then factory reset then try the WAN and ports to see if you regain functionality.
- WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed
3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
- Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.
What browser are you using?
Try Opera or FF? If IE 8 or 9, set compatibility mode and test again.
Try turning off these features in Chrome:
Top right corner, little bars for options > Settings > Settings (on left) > Show advanced settings.
Uncheck these:
Use a web service to help resolve navigation errors
Use a prediction service to help complete searches and URLs typed in the address bar
Predict network actions to improve page load performance
Enable phishing and malware protection
If any of this fails, Please phone contact D-Link support and just ask for an RMA. I'm sure they will get it fixed for you.
-
At the moment I'm in Guatemala (I travel often) the router only lets me connect wirelessly. I did a factory reset before and after loading firmware 1.04. The router was working fine with firmware 1.04 for about a couple of months. The ISP where I'm staying is Claro(DSL) and the router was connected to an old Thomson ST585V6 on one of it's LAN ports. I've gone through all settings in the router and no matter what I do I can't make the WAN or LAN ports work.
-
If this is your current modem:Thomson ST585V6 (http://downloads.thomson.net/telecom/documentation/ST585v6/R82X/SetupUserGuide/PDF/ST585-v6_SetupUserGuide_en.pdf)
I believe this is a gateway modem thus having a built in router. Possible that maybe connecting to this modem or a different one could be introducing problems.
- If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems: Link>Double NAT (http://www.practicallynetworked.com/networking/fixing_double_nat.htm) and How NAT Works (http://cognitiveanomalies.com/cisco-nat-how-nat-works/). To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged. If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.
However if nothing on wired LAN cable can be connected correctly and can not establish a connection with the router, and after swapping out cabling, then this unit probably needs to be RMAd soon.
-
Thank you for helping. I will contact D-Link to RMA it.
-
Let us know how it turns out.
Good Luck.
-
Hi, I have an DIR-835A1 on firmware 1.04 and it was working almost without a problem for around 6 months. Today while I was streaming music from iheart radio it totally halted. So I just rebooted the router and when that didn't work I did a factory reset. After it booted I notice the WAN LED was off so I check the wires and all wires are good. So I just turn it off unplug it for about a couple of hours till I got back home. When I got back home I check all LAN ports and they are all dead, nothing happens when I plug it to any device. WIFI still works it went back to default I'm able to connect and login to the router and WAN shows it's disconnected when I have everything connected properly. I'm thinking a fuse to the wire ports or something like a capacitor fried. Any suggestions before I get rid of it. I believe it's out of warranty so if anyone knows of an easy fix like soldering a new fuse or the like please let me know. Thanks ahead.
Ditto - I have 2 units both with dead RJ45 ports, can connect wireless, have defaulted both no change.
Product Page: DIR-835 Hardware Version: A1 Firmware Version: 1.04
How to RMA and if so, any cost involved?
-
Have you tested with different cables and PCs to ensure the problem persists?
I recommend phone contacting D-Link support for RMA support. RMA means they should replace for free less any shipping charges to get the units to them.
Worth a phone call.
Ditto - I have 2 units both with dead RJ45 ports, can connect wireless, have defaulted both no change.
Product Page: DIR-835 Hardware Version: A1 Firmware Version: 1.04
How to RMA and if so, any cost involved?
-
I bought a DIR-835 less than a week ago. It arrived maybe 4 days ago. I set it up updated FW to 1.04. All was well and then yesterday I wake up to a dead router. Same issue. LAN and WAN ports are completely unresponsive. Trying to avoid waiting on the phone for an hour (I have owned several other D-Link products and this is the norm. I should have known better than to even buy another) I decided to try getting some support on the web. Well... that's damn near impossible since your website does nothing but send you in circles for an hour while never giving anyone a chance to chat or email support. The chat with support button is great if you want to get meaningless answers from a computer. Annoyed to say the least. Any options whatsoever other than waiting on hold for an hour to hear someone ask me a million questions and have me try the same things I already have??
-
Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- What region are you located?
- Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch?
FW Update Process (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=42457.0)
- Was the router working before any firmware updates?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing?
- What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have?
I bought a DIR-835 less than a week ago. It arrived maybe 4 days ago. I set it up updated FW to 1.04. All was well and then yesterday I wake up to a dead router. Same issue. LAN and WAN ports are completely unresponsive. Trying to avoid waiting on the phone for an hour (I have owned several other D-Link products and this is the norm. I should have known better than to even buy another) I decided to try getting some support on the web. Well... that's damn near impossible since your website does nothing but send you in circles for an hour while never giving anyone a chance to chat or email support. The chat with support button is great if you want to get meaningless answers from a computer. Annoyed to say the least. Any options whatsoever other than waiting on hold for an hour to hear someone ask me a million questions and have me try the same things I already have??
-
What region are you located? Northeast US
Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch? Yes. Attempted several times since the issue occurred also. Except I had to do it through WiFi since the physical ports stopped working
FW Update Process
Was the router working before any firmware updates? Yes. It was also working after the update for a couple days before it crapped out.
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL? Optimum Online Cable
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have? ARRIS TM804G I believe
Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing? Dynamic but it doesn't change often. Have had the same IP for well over 3 months
What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have? 50D/25U
-
Is or was Tru Gigabit Routing enabled or disabled?
What devices were connected to the LAN ports?
What kind of LAN cables were being used?- Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
We've see issues with Arris modems before. I personally don't recommend them:
Arris Cable Modems and External Routers (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50682.0)
Sounds like this needs to be RMAd. I recommend that you phone contact your regional D-Link support office and ask for help and information regarding this. Ask for level 2 or higher support and for an RMA. We find that phone contact has better immediate results over using email.
Let us know how it goes please.
What region are you located? Northeast US
Was a Factory Reset performed before and after any firmware updates then set up from scratch? Yes. Attempted several times since the issue occurred also. Except I had to do it through WiFi since the physical ports stopped working
FW Update Process
Was the router working before any firmware updates? Yes. It was also working after the update for a couple days before it ****ped out.
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL? Optimum Online Cable
What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have? ARRIS TM804G I believe
Is ISP Modem/Service using Dynamic or Static WAN IP addressing? Dynamic but it doesn't change often. Have had the same IP for well over 3 months
What ISP Modem service link speeds UP and Down do you have? 50D/25U
[/list]
-
I believe Tru Gigabit was enabled. It is such an utter pain in the ass to even connect to the modem via a WiFi connection (LAN and WAN ports still completely dead) that I am not sure to be honest. But I do believe I had it enabled. If there is an option for Tru Gigabit for auto then that's most likely what I had set it up for.
The only device connected through a LAN port other than the PC I used solely to setup the router was an Xbox. The Xbox was connected with a Cat 6 wire and the computer was connected with the ethernet cable supplied by D-Link. Which I would assume is Cat 6 if that's what is recommended. I had a second ethernet cable, again supplied by D-Link with my old DIR-601, that I used to connect the modem to the router as per installation instructions. Again. I don't know if that is a Cat6 or Cat5 but I would hope it's Cat6 if that is what D-Link recommends.
The Arris modem I have is solely a modem, not a router, and I have not had any issues whatsoever using that modem with the DIR-601, DIR-835 (for the whole 2 days or so that it worked before becoming completely unresponsive), or a LinkSys WRT54G. I have no reason to put any blame on the modem. I do not connect through PPoE or anything of the sort, nor do I have issues where I would need to copy a PCs MAC to get any router to work with my modem.
I will try calling support tomorrow, I suppose. The level of support both here and on the D-Link website is rather aggravating though. Don't get me wrong I do appreciate the help Furry, but having to explain this issue for now a third time and most likely waiting on the phone for an hour before I even get the chance to do so is not something any customer is going to look forward to or appreciate. Nor is it very efficient for D-Link. Quite the turnoff to D-Link, honestly.
Is or was Tru Gigabit Routing enabled or disabled?
What devices were connected to the LAN ports?
What kind of LAN cables were being used?- Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
We've see issues with Arris modems before. I personally don't recommend them:
Arris Cable Modems and External Routers (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=50682.0)
Sounds like this needs to be RMAd. I recommend that you phone contact your regional D-Link support office and ask for help and information regarding this. Ask for level 2 or higher support and for an RMA. We find that phone contact has better immediate results over using email.
Let us know how it goes please.
[/list]
-
Ya, I think the damage is done now and we can't do anything more.
IF you get a case number, let me know via PM. We have seen some issues with the LAN ports going bad and would like to keep track if possible.
Keep us posted.
-
I'm having a peculiar issue with my DIR-835. It appears as though the LAN ports only work when CAT6 cables are connected. Any CAT5 cable will not work, I've tried many to rule out bad cables. I've also tried my one CAT6 cable in each of the four ports and can confirm that all the ports work. I have had this router for a couple of years and this just started happening a week ago. Is there a setting that may need to be changed? I have not made any changes since the initial setup.
•Canada
•Both wired and wireless
•No
•N/A
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
•Tek Savvy
•Thompson DCM476
•Dynamic IP
•None
-
Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under the router case.
- Link>What Firmware (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=47512.0) version is currently loaded? Found on the routers web page under status.
Possible that the CAT5 cables are Mfrd differently. CAT6 is preferred:
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
I have the 835 however I haven't tested it with CAT5 cables. My main cables are CAT6.
-
Hi,
The Hardware Version is A1 and the firmware version is 1.04.
Possible that the CAT5 cables are Mfrd differently. CAT6 is preferred:
If this was an issue right out of the box I might agree with you, but since everything had been operating correctly for at least 2 years and now all of a sudden this has started happening, I really don't believe the issues to be the cables. To rule it out I've even tried multiple cables, that I use at work and know that they function properly.
I'm not sure if I said this in my previous post, but I did not change any settings at all since I initial set up the router. Could a setting have set itself?
- Check cable between Modem and Router, swap out to be sure. Link> Cat6 is recommended. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAT6)
I swapped out the cable between the Modem and Router and the results were the same.
Thanks,
Seb
-
Theres nothing in the UI that can be changed to effect what type of cable can be used.
Only thing I can think of is something changed. Possible internal failure maybe happening.
Where is the router placed?
We have seen some heat issues with this model router and the DAP-1533 which is it's companion AP.
I recommend using a laptop fan under these units.
What was the symtom that lead you to change out the CAT5 for CAT6?
-
The router is in my basement on a shelf in a cool dry area, with the rest of my networking hardware. I added the CAT6 cable in December when I upgraded my NAS.
-
So it was working well before adding the NAS and CAT6?
What made you use CAT5 after adding the NAS and CAT6?
-
It was working well before and after adding the NAS and CAT6. It worked well for over 2 months.
I made the change because my previous NAS didn't support CAT5 and my new one did.
-
Oh...well not sure if changing the NAS out has been the cause or not. I presume that upgrading all to CAT6 is best. I tend not to run mixed CAT cables if I can help it.
If your not experiencing any major problems, I presume you'll be ok.
-
Ok, so now this gets a little stranger... I previously tested each of the ports with the CAT6 cable that was connected to the NAS and confirmed that each of the four ports are working correctly because I was able to access the NAS while it was plugged into either port. Well this appears to only be true when the NAS is connected. I just tried a hard wired connection to my laptop using the very same CAT6 cable that the NAS is using and I am unable to see the network. ???
Thoughts?
-
How do you mean it can't see the network? Is the LT getting a IP address?
What Mfr and model # is the NAS?
Is the NAS and LT set up for reserved IP addresses?
PC 3rd Party Security Software Configurations
- Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
I recommend using a static IP address ON the NAS thats outside of the routers main DHCP IP address pool. I have my DNS-345 set up as .0.34.
FYI:
DHCP/Dynamic Addressing/IP Reservation/Static IP FAQ (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=58017.0)
-
I'm not sure if it's getting an IP address, but I can't ping the router...
The NAS is a ZyXEL NSA325 v2, and no it is not set up for a reserved IP address, neither is the laptop.
-
I recommend setting up a reserved IP address for the LT ON the router.
Set a Static IP address ON the NAS for .0.25 or .0.32
-
Ok, so I've set both the NAS and the LT to have static IPs. I've done some further testing...
I tried to ping a.root-servers.net from my NAS and it failed. I also tried checking for updated firmware and that connection timed out... Which leads me to believe that it can not access the internet. There are the IP settings on the NAS:
IP Address: 192.168.0.100
IP Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway: 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS Server: 192.168.0.1
Here is what is on the Router:
IP Address : 192.168.0.1
Subnet Mask : 255.255.255.0
This all looks right. Am I correct?
Is there something else I should look for?
-
Ok, so I've set both the NAS and the LT to have static IPs. I've done some further testing...
I tried to ping a.root-servers.net from my NAS and it failed. I also tried checking for updated firmware and that connection timed out... Which leads me to believe that it can not access the internet. There are the IP settings on the NAS:
IP Address: 192.168.0.100> 192.168.0.32
IP Subnet Mask: 255.255.255.0
Default Gateway: 192.168.0.1
Primary DNS Server: 192.168.0.1
Here is what is on the Router:
IP Address : 192.168.0.1
Subnet Mask : 255.255.255.0
This all looks right. Am I correct?
Is there something else I should look for?
Internet Service Provider and Modem Configurations
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
- Turn off TrueGigaBit Routing (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=60699.0) under Setup/Internet/Manual for those routers that have this feature for testing.
- Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.
- Turn on or off DNS Relay (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=45143.0) under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0) and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Is DNS relay enabled on the router? Disable it and test. You'll need to reboot the router and all devices.
-
- What ISP Service do you have? Cable or DSL?
Cable (Tek Savvy)
- What ISP Modem Mfr. and model # do you have?
Thompson DCM476
- Turn off TrueGigaBit Routing (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=60699.0) under Setup/Internet/Manual for those routers that have this feature for testing.
Done
- Enable or Disable Use Unicasting (compatibility for some ISP DHCP Servers) and test under Setup/Internet/Manual. Disable may help with speed performance on higher speed ISP services.
Tried this
- Turn on or off DNS Relay (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=45143.0) under Setup/Networking. Link>Finding Faster DNS Addresses using Name Bench (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=53222.0) and input new DNS addresses under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Tried this
Is DNS relay enabled on the router? Disable it and test. You'll need to reboot the router and all devices.
It was on, and I've since disabled it
With all the changes above I am still having the same issue. How is it that I can browse the web with my laptop that is connected wirelessly, but not with something that is hard wired?
-
And this happens with all wired connections?
Do you have access to the routers UI on wired connections?
-
And this happens with all wired connections?
Yes
Do you have access to the routers UI on wired connections?
No, only wireless
-
So swapping out CAT 6 or CAT 5 cables doesn't effect anything?
Possible that the router is going bad... :-[
-
That appears to be true... :'(
-
Been a known issue with this model router and it's wired ports. Same thing with the 1533. Good units, just not good Ports. Not sure why they fail like this.
You may want to phone contact D-Link support and ask to see if there is any help, maybe in the form of an RMA.
If the unit it too far out of date with them, please consider a DIR-836L if you can get one. I found one on fleabay for $17. ;D Has same specs to 835 however has some cloud and media features that the 835 doesn't have. Good solid router. Another suggested router would be the DIR-868L Rev A. I see Canada has a Rev B version which the routers UI is different and is like this:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=59563.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=59563.0)
The new UI is less complex and more simplified. Rev B is not available on this side of the fence. ::)
Let us know how it goes...
-
Thanks for the advice and all your help, I will definitely look into the models you suggested.
Do you have any idea if the DIR-835 can now be turned into a repeater? Since the wireless still works, it would be nice to get some use out of it if I can.
-
Unfortunately it can't be. FW doesn't support it. Only a wired AP which in this case. ::)
I think there is DD-WRT FW for this model router, you could check to see if they have any FW for it. I think they support repeating in there FW. Just be careful though. It's not recommended to flash any FW using wireless, however in this case you might try it.
You could try reloading FW and see if the LAN ports come back. I kind of doubt it though. :-\
-
Thanks for all the tips, and your time. I'll check out those options.
-
Let us know what you end up doing.
Good Luck. ;)
-
Am I wrong in thinking that the DIR-850L and the DIR-868L are basically the same when you remove the "advanced media" functions from the 868L?
-
850L: Wi-Fi: Up to 300 + 867Mbps
868L: Wi-Fi: Up to 450 + 1300Mbps, SmartBeam technology and USB 3.0
-
Perfect. Thanks again. I think I'm leaning towards the 850L for cost reasons, but we'll see how it works out.
-
Sounds good. You could check out amazon or newegg. Sometimes you can find good deals on 868Ls, even new ones. if the price point is close to the 850L, You could go for the 868L Ay. ;D Hope either way you find something good.
Let us know what you get.
Cheers.
-
Any status on this? ???
Perfect. Thanks again. I think I'm leaning towards the 850L for cost reasons, but we'll see how it works out.
-
Have a DIR-835, on the second one and it is on its way out like the first which has its wired ports died. The first router ran stock firmware v1.02 and v1.04, lasted 11 months, the current one is running DD-WRT and so far lasted 15 months. Got a TP-link AP on order to replace this one so now its time to experiment with it in its dying days to see if I can make it last a little longer until its replacement arrives. Router is used only as an AP and all unneeded features except for WMM are turned off.
I took it apart, and noticed the LAN and WAN ports are wired right into the main CPU on the board after the chokes. This happened to be the hottest chip by touch on the board and all it had for a heat sink was a 0.5 sq in thin ceramic plate (this is absolute junk for heat transfer).
Mode of operation: Access Point (routing disabled), WPA2/PSK personal, WAN disabled, 5Ghz channel 137 - 802.11n HT40 300Mbps, 2.4Ghz disabled, gigabit Cat5e on port 1. Internet connection is very healthy 200/10 nat'd through a 3.2Ghz Core2 Duo PfSense box and my tests max the connection over the wifi.
The Experiment:
Steps taken:
1. I re-flowed the board with a heatgun, focusing on the main CPU, suspecting that thermal stresses probably cracked the SMD mounted CPU's mini solder-ball joints.
2. Added a modified copper heat sink + TIM stolen from a piece of **** 100W Mastercraft car inverter, all held down by tape+elastic band over the main PCB
3. Router relocated to open space (it used to be in a cabinet with the doors wide open).
Currently the router doesn't make it past 24 hours without a lockup of the CPU and the connection dropping.
Validation: Lets see how long it goes till the next crash. Next time it crashes or in a week I'll update the thread.
Cheers,
Donald
-
Link>Welcome! (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=48135.0)
- What region are you located?
Did you remove the ceramic tab heat sink then apply the metalic heat sink?
Did you apply thermal compound between the chip and metal heat sink? This is crucial to get the best heat transfer from the chip to the heat sink.
FYI: http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56166.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56166.0)
Have a DIR-835, on the second one and it is on its way out like the first which has its wired ports died. The first router ran stock firmware v1.02 and v1.04, lasted 11 months, the current one is running DD-WRT and so far lasted 15 months. Got a TP-link AP on order to replace this one so now its time to experiment with it in its dying days to see if I can make it last a little longer until its replacement arrives. Router is used only as an AP and all unneeded features except for WMM are turned off.
I took it apart, and noticed the LAN and WAN ports are wired right into the main CPU on the board after the chokes. This happened to be the hottest chip by touch on the board and all it had for a heat sink was a 0.5 sq in thin ceramic plate (this is absolute junk for heat transfer).
Mode of operation: Access Point (routing disabled), WPA2/PSK personal, WAN disabled, 5Ghz channel 137 - 802.11n HT40 300Mbps, 2.4Ghz disabled, gigabit Cat5e on port 1. Internet connection is very healthy 200/10 nat'd through a 3.2Ghz Core2 Duo PfSense box and my tests max the connection over the wifi.
The Experiment:
Steps taken:
1. I re-flowed the board with a heatgun, focusing on the main CPU, suspecting that thermal stresses probably cracked the SMD mounted CPU's mini solder-ball joints.
2. Added a modified copper heat sink + TIM stolen from a piece of **** 100W Mastercraft car inverter, all held down by tape+elastic band over the main PCB
3. Router relocated to open space (it used to be in a cabinet with the doors wide open).
Currently the router doesn't make it past 24 hours without a lockup of the CPU and the connection dropping.
Validation: Lets see how long it goes till the next crash. Next time it crashes or in a week I'll update the thread.
Cheers,
Donald
-
Region: Located in Canada (router is a Canadian variant)
Thanks FurryNutz for the welcome, I will peruse the links provided.
Back to the router, its ceramic block was removed along with its TIM (Thermal Interface Material). I put another TIM on the chip for the copper heatsink to have good contact. TIMs don't have as high of a heat conduction rate as grease, but they remain stable through their life - and I need to limit the variables for this test so thermal grease is out of the question at this time. So far the router has past the 24 hours test without a crash, the clock continues to tick.
-
To get good heat xfer between the chip and heat sink, Thermal compound should be used as not having it will reduce the heat transfer and not help you in limiting the variables.
FYI, I had a DAP-1533 which died on me in the same way. The LAN ports died. The DAP-1533 and DIR-835 are the same HW and when I got both of them in, both units exhibited a defect in placement of the ceramic ship. One was just sitting on the ship and only the TIM was holding it in place. I removed all the ceramics and put in metal sinks. Of course the DAP died anyways. I still have the DIR-835 and seems to be ok. I may break into it and check the LAN port chip.
Any pictures of your unit and the heat sink mods would be appreciated if you posted them:
Adding Screenshots In A Post (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=58120.0)
Moving forward on new generatioin router. D-Link has taken steps to ensure that good sinks are used and better ventalation is put in after I made them aware of these issues.
Region: Located in Canada (router is a Canadian variant)
Thanks FurryNutz for the welcome, I will peruse the links provided.
Back to the router, its ceramic block was removed along with its TIM (Thermal Interface Material). I put another TIM on the chip for the copper heatsink to have good contact. TIMs don't have as high of a heat conduction rate as grease, but they remain stable through their life - and I need to limit the variables for this test so thermal grease is out of the question at this time. So far the router has past the 24 hours test without a crash, the clock continues to tick.
-
Router continues to operate without a crash. Got my cable internet connection repaired also, turned out to be an issue at the NOC. Incidentally though, got a modem swap again, this time to an Arris DG2470A fresh from the manufacturer. The good old password of the day generator doesn't work, but I figured out a new way into the modem's tech menu and complete SNMP dump - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHVge3SkIoo
I will get photos of the DIR-835 mod later today if my kids give me some space... (dislike opening up electronics when the kids are up)
-
;)
-
Today was military policy research and phone calls day... grr... supposed to be away from work November (but it involved relatives). Anyhow, here are a couple pics of the router's heat sink 5-minute ghetto mod. Parts were what I had on-hand in my parts bin, and this was experimental as I was prepared to toss this thing into electronic recycling. The copper heatsink is almost burning to the touch, and is the hottest surface within the router - but it is rated to handle a 100W MOSFET's heat dissipation in tighter confines. I suggest a chipset heatsink and maybe some high grade thermal epoxy.
Router still hasn't crashed! So if you have a router on the way out... try reflowing and go get a southbridge/ICH chipset heatsink for it. If it is still dead, the chip may have burned internally, as I doubt it has a thermal throttle.
Originals:
http://imgur.com/thRzQXZ
http://imgur.com/SbFLirA
Preview:
(http://i.imgur.com/thRzQXZl.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/SbFLirAl.jpg)
-
Awesome.
Heres what I did for the DAP-1533 which is the same HW:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56166.msg220434#msg220434 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=56166.msg220434#msg220434)
The DAP still failed since I was using it as a bridge on 5Ghz. It was stood up on end when it failed so I presume that maybe it failed due to still not having enough heat dissipation possibly. I did this same mod to my 835 however when I do use it, or any router, I place it on a laptop cooler for additional ventilation. You might install one just as precautionary step. The DIR-835, DAP-1533, DIR-827 and 857 saw similar heat issues using the cheaper composite heat chips. I also saw that when these chips were used, if they were not fixed to the IC chip fully, failure seemed to happen more often then not. It was the 1533 I bought new from fleabay and I opened it up and found that the composite chips were more just sitting loosely on the ICs rather than stuck on. I new then this would lead to failure at some point sooner than expected.
Anyhow, anyone with a DIR-835 or DAP-1533 is recommended to add additional cooling and if you can, make the modifications for adding new and better heat sinks. This will help keep the routers from failing. I made D-Link aware of this however since these units are not being supported anymore, we'll have to use the mod's and laptop coolers as an alternative work around. D-Links newer generation routers do have better metal heat sinks now and don't have this heat problem anymore. Someone did something at least. LOL>
-
Nice mod to your DAP-1533, but man those internal antennas suck. D-link usually does a good job for their external ones.
Another mod would be finding the VCore voltage for the switch chip and possibly dropping it... but that is for another day. If a volt reduction mod was successful by even 0.05v or more... the power reduction could be enough to reduce the chip's TDP. High heat density + bad heatsinks + RoHS Lead free manufacturing leads to bad things...
When my TP-link unit arrives it will be promptly disassembled and inspected for this sort of nonsense. The DIR-835 will serve as a secondary AP on the 2nd floor until it decides to blow smoke.
-
Ya range isn't quite as good as externals. Same thing with the DIR-657, 827 and 857 routers alone with the cylinder style case routers they produced. Even though the 868L series is a great router and has great range for internal antennae.
Ya, I think there could have been better heat design work on some of these routers. I think D-Link has learned though. The 880L is a larger DIR-867 case and with better ventilation in the bottom portion of the 880L now and no longer using composite heat sink chips...stability is good now:
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=59563.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=59563.0)
Live and learn I guess.
-
Ah, this just happened to mine.. uh.. help?
Edit: I see I need to contact D-LINK for an RMA.. is this possible on an older unit?
-
http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=64099.0 (http://forums.dlink.com/index.php?topic=64099.0)
Ah, this just happened to mine.. uh.. help?
Edit: I see I need to contact D-LINK for an RMA.. is this possible on an older unit?