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[Elite_Deforce]

Ok so here goes.

I am with Shaw cable and I've been having some crazy connectivity issues lately.

The Shaw modem is connected to my DIR-655, which is my PRIMARY router. That hooks up to another Dlink wired-only router (my house is wired up for Ethernet, so we needed lots of ports). I also am using a Netgear MR814v2 router to repeat the DIR-655's connection in my basement. This is setup as 192.168.11.1. This was actually setup by a computer engineer.

Now, this setup has been working beautifully for me for about a month now, with absolutely NO issues. However, in the past few days, I have been loosing total internet connectivity in only some patches of my setup.

Sometimes, the wireless devices connected to the Netgear still connect, but the wireless devices on the Dlink are a no-go. Sometimes, my Netgear has no connectivity, and my Dlink has all devices working whether wired or wireless. What's even odder is sometimes laptops and desktops (a mix of Windows 7, XP, and one OSX mac) over WIFI connect and work normally, but some iPhones and Android devices are a no go on my DLINK. I have one wired computer connected to the NETGEAR, which sometimes works sometimes doesn't. The difference between the DLINK and the NETGEAR is that the Dlink seems to be selective about providing internet to some devices, whereas the NETGEAR either works or doesn't.

ALL of my devices are able to connect to the routers over WiFi and ethernet, no problem, this is purely internet connectivity I'm talking about.

I called Shaw and they said their end is good. So before I call them again and possible get their modem replaced, is this a problem with my system?

Thanks.

[FurryNutz]

Link>Welcome!
What Hardware version is your router? Look at sticker under router.
Link>What Firmware version is currently loaded? Found on routers web page under status.

Has a Factory Reset been performed?

What ISP Modem do you have? Stand Alone or built in router?
What ISP Modem make and model do you have?
If this modem has a built in router, it's best to bridge the modem. Having 2 routers on the same line can cause connection problems.
Double NAT
To tell if the modem is bridged or not, look at the routers web page, Status/Device Info/Wan Section, if there is a 192.168.0.# address in the WAN IP address field, then the modem is not bridged.
If the modem can't be bridged then see if the modem has a DMZ option and input the IP address the router gets from the modem and put that into the modems DMZ.

Some things to try: - Log into the routers web page at 192.168.0.1.
Turn off ALL QoS or Disable Traffic Shaping (DIR only) GameFuel (DGL only and if ON.) options. Advanced/QoS or Gamefuel.
Turn off Advanced DNS Services if you have this option under Setup/Internet/Manual.
Turn on DNS Relay under Setup/Networking.
Setup DHCP reserved IP addresses for all devices ON the router. Setup/Networking
Ensure devices are set to auto obtain an IP address.
Set Firewall settings to Endpoint Independent for TCP and UDP under Advanced/Firewall.
Enable uPnP and Multi-cast Streaming under Advanced/Networking. Disable uPnP for testing Port Forwarding rules.
WAN Port Speed set to Auto or specific speed? Some newer ISP modems support 1000Mb so manually setting to Gb speeds can be supported by the router. Advanced/Advanced Networking/WAN Port Speed

Link>Wireless Installation Considerations
What wireless modes are you using? Under Setup/Wireless/Manual.
Try single mode G or N or mixed G and N?
Channel Width set for Auto 20/40Mhz or try 20Mhz only.
Try setting a manual channel to a open or unused channel. 1, 6 or 11. 11 for single mode N if the channel is clear.
What security mode are you using? Preferred security is WPA-Personal. WPA2/AES Only. Some WiFi adapters don't support AES, so you might want to try TPIK only or Auto.
What wireless devices do you have connected?
Any cordless house phones?
Any other WiFi routers in the area? Link> Use InSSIDer to find out. How many?
Turn off WISH, and WPS under Advanced.
Try turning off Short GI, WLAN Partition,and Extra Wireless Protection if you have it. Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Enable WMM Enable Under Advanced/Advanced Wireless.
Turn off all anti virus and firewall programs on PC while testing. 3rd party firewalls are not generally needed when using routers as they are effective on blocking malicious inbound traffic.
Turn off all devices accept for one wired PC while testing.

Ensure the channels on the Netgear and the DIR router differ if running in AP mode. Not sure if your Netgear is bridged mode or not.

Can you give us a diagram of how our network looks like?

ISP Modem>DIR-655>Netgear as an example

[Elite_Deforce]

Thanks for the reply. I actually tried all of those recommendations in another thread you posted them in, to no success.

My network diagrams to basically what you laid out. ISP modem>655>wired router>netgear>user.

I don't think anything is bridged, how would you go about checking that? Also I could try changing channels, but like I said, this setup was working for a while. I will try it nonetheless and see what happens.


My 655 is A3 hardware 1.35na firmware. My netgear is running the latest firmware as well.

ISP modem is A Motorola surfboard sb5102

[Elite_Deforce]

Bump.

[FurryNutz]

I would remove this wired router and Netgear temporarily and test client to DIR-655 and see how it runs. Then add the NetGear on and test again.

What make and model is this "Wired Router"?

[Elite_Deforce]

The wired unit is a dlink DGS-1008G.

the problem with testing as you suggest is the way my setup is setup physically, if I ditched the wired switcher, half my house goes dead along with my netgear. I could attach the netgear directly to the 655 but it will be for testing purposes only.

What confuses me is that this setup was working just fine. the worst part is, if I reboot the 655, internet comes back for everyone usually for an undetermined amount of time. so it would be difficult to draw conclusions from this test. I will try nonetheless.

[FurryNutz]

I would swap cables as well as your testing to be sure. If we an narrow down what is the root cause of the connection issues then we should be able to find out what the next step is.

I would test directly with the 655 and a client or as many as you can get directly connected and see. This is only to see if the problem remains.

Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer if your interested. Its safe and secure. After you have tested the 655 directly.

[Elite_Deforce]

Ok, well I have disconnected the 655 from everything and I will be testing with only one device. well see how it goes.

[FurryNutz]

 

[Elite_Deforce]

So the 655 seems to be the culprit. It took all of the time between my last post till now for it to lose internet access whether over WiFi or Ethernet (I tried both on my laptop. What's the next step? I've already done countless factory resets and I swear the only thing I changed was the WiFi authentication mode (Wep to wpa) c couple of weeks ago,,but that doesn't explain the wired connection going dead as well.

[FurryNutz]

Ok. So can you still access the routers web page when this happens?
If you can, check the routers logs during this time frame, do you see any entries regarding a loss of connection or re-connection the ISP modem? Might say something about re-acquiring WAN IP address and give the address along with DNS addresses.

I would check to see if the ISP modem is losing connections as well, If your getting access to the router, it's possible the ISP modem is hanging on something. If your on cable, you need to have the ISP check the signal going into the modem and make sure is correct. If there are any T.V. line splitters on the same line before the ISP Modem, this will lower the signal and cause issues there.

Swap out cables between the ISP modem and router to test.

Maybe someone can review your router settings with you using Link> teamviewer if your interested. Its safe and secure. Can make sure the 655 is correctly configured well for you.

I might ask the ISP if the have a new model modem to use as well. If you have a friend, neighbor or family near by, I recommend taking the 655 to there place and do a quick test to see if the problem follows. If so, then you'll know.

[Elite_Deforce]

Yes, I can still access the console. I don't see anything in the logs that could indicate the signal from the modem is dropped... strangely the leds on the 655 still seem like they are handling quite a bit of activity, even though there is nothing connected to it but my device, which has no internet access anyway. When I called my ISP a couple of days ago, they said their signal in my area was fine. If this continues I might ask them to replace my modem maybe.

I'm going to swap cables from my modem to my 655 and power cycle everything. ill post back here with results. cheers.

[Elite_Deforce]

Going on 40 min so far so good on the new cable. It has stayed on for longer periods before though, so still crossing fingers.

[FurryNutz]

Ok if you can still access the routers web page means that the WAN connection is having the problems. Hope the new cable maybe just the issue. 

Cat6 is recommended.

Keep us posted.

[Elite_Deforce]

So if you had to make an educated guess at this point in time, you would point fingers at either the cable or the Shaw modem,correct?

Yeah unfortunately I think the entire house is wired with cat5, and I have no way of changing that with some considerable work. But, these wires have been running for almost 2 years now without issue, so I don't know.

still crossing fingers here. And still strangely,,the leds on the 655 still show as if activity is definitely happening. so does the activity light on the modem.