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[michaelmartin]

Thanks!

[JavaLawyer]

Thanks!

Please post back and let us know how things work out. 

[michaelmartin]

Well, I have the capacitor but have never soldered SMD before (although I've done plenty of electrical soldering).  There is no way my iron is gonna do this job, and it probably isn't worth buying one that will do this inasmuch as I am not likely to need it for any purpose other than this. 

[three_jeeps]

The following site (pointed out by another forum member) contains photos of the clam-shell case opened up: http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/showthread.php?4110-Re-Looking-for-a-better-IP-camera-Cisco-Wireless-N-Internet-Home-Monitoring-Camera-WVC80N/page3

thanks to those that Identified and resolved the horizontal line issue.  Perhaps they have some insight on this question.

Does anyone know the mfg & model number of the CMOS camera module used in the 930L dlink camera?  

Mine has deteriorated to the point that all my images are fuzzy. and I want to replace it.
Thank you....
-J

[quorra]

Just did this mod on two of my cameras (both 930L models) and it works great, no more lines in low light.

While I was in there I also removed the IR filter on one of cameras, much better for night use now!

[acellier]

While in there, did you happen to examine for possible better focus, to improve the soft imaging?
We understand that early units had screw threads on the lens, but now glued ...

[quorra]

On the cameras I have (both bought this year) you can adjust the focus. I had to do this when I removed the IR filter which is the plastic piece (redish tint) on the back of the threaded lens unit. However, there is some type of threadlocker on there so be very careful trying to unscrew it or you may break it. I got the threads free by applying very little turning force, going CCW then CW, about five times.

[acellier]

On the cameras I have (both bought this year) you can adjust the focus. I had to do this when I removed the IR filter which is the plastic piece (redish tint) on the back of the threaded lens unit. However, there is some type of threadlocker on there so be very careful trying to unscrew it or you may break it. I got the threads free by applying very little turning force, going CCW then CW, about five times.

Thanks a lot for that info!
Maybe I'll get brave about going in while under warranty, as these are getting so inexpensive now ...

[jbwiv]

Guys,

I have a DCS-932L rev A1 which I'd like to apply this fix to. However, on my board, the components which are labeled L8 and C38 in the posted pictures appear to be L6 and C98. C38 is horizontally aligned just north of L6, and I can't find L8 anywhere.

Will soldering a capacitor to L6 and C98 work? Or should it be something completely different?

Image here: http://i.imgur.com/crzqDQR.jpg

[jbwiv]

I highlighted the area:

http://imgur.com/BfuRZYE

[jbwiv]

Well, I gave it a shot. The good news is that the camera still works...the bad news is that the lines are still there. Now, the only other difference (aside from component numbering) is that I used a 330uF 16v.

I'm wondering if I really got a good connection with the solder...I'm relatively new to this type of soldering and I plan to give it another go, this time with a 470uF 16V. But, it'd really help out if anyone could answer a few questions:

1. Most soldering tutorials online involve soldering the capacitor wires through holes. In this case, I note we're soldering the wires to little "boxes". Each box seems to have exposed metal on two sides. My question: is it important to solder to one of these two exposed sides? Or, can the solder safely melt onto both sides?
2. Many tutorials I've watched recommend heating the board hole with the iron and then using that heat to melt the solder. Since we're not doing "holes" here, but onto the side of boxes, I was afraid to heat said boxes and opted to try to hold the wire, iron, and solder all the same place and apply the iron directly to the solder. I eventually made it work, but am not sure it is a clean connection. How do you recommend doing this? Is it safe to apply the iron tip to the "box" and then press the wire and solder to the side? Or, do I really need to avoid applying heat to those boxes?
3. What are those boxes called, anyway?

I really appreciate any feedback you can provide. I'm willing to sacrifice this camera for the sake of science, to see if the component numbering matters, but any knowledge you can share to make my journey a bit safer is greatly appreciated. I'm a software developer by trade, not an electrician ;-)

Thanks!

[acellier]

I can't say about the solder practice, not having seen the actual boards
 - but, I seriously doubt that 470 uF or 330 uF will make a difference (I am a retired electrical engineer)
Someone must have had a schematic to identify where the cap needs to go - I suggest a thorough Googling!

[jbwiv]

Thanks for your reply acellier.

For board pics, here you go: http://imgur.com/BfuRZYE

Regarding schematics, I'd love to track those down, but heavy googling hasn't revealed anything for the DCS-932L. Is this something commonly published?

Regarding soldering techniques, if you could just confirm what the boxes are and how I should go about soldering to them (can I heat the boxes or should I just heat the solder directly, etc) that will help.

[evilslon]

Regarding soldering techniques, if you could just confirm what the boxes are and how I should go about soldering to them (can I heat the boxes or should I just heat the solder directly, etc) that will help.

You should heat the solder directly and not the "box" itself, these "boxes" (see my picture) are capacitor (C39) and inductor (L8). Don't forget that your capacitor have polarity and it is necessary to take into account!

[jbwiv]

evilslon

Thanks for your reply! That really helps. However, see my picture here http://i.imgur.com/crzqDQR.jpg. On my board (DCS-932L REV-A1) what appears on your board as C39 and L8 appears on my board as C98 and L6. At least, in the exact same spots are similar components with labels C98 and L6 instead of C39 and L8.

I've combined the images side by side here http://imgur.com/sp3ypfU.jpg. See yours on the left, and mine on the right. The layout looks almost identical, but the labels are different.

Do you think this matters, or should i simply give it a go with C98 and L6? Also, assuming I have to solder to one of the silver sides of the boxes, does it matter which side I solder to? I do know the capacitor I'm soldering on does have polarity and I know to solder the negative to C39 (or C98 in my case) and the positive to L8 (or L6 in my case).

What are your thoughts?

Thanks very much for your help!